Coasting
Aboard the Flex Muscle 4, in Prince Edward Island's Confederation Cove © Carolyne Weldon
Driving down the coasts of Oregon and California earlier this week, on my inaugural road trip through the Redwoods and down scenic route 101, I was struck by how distinct and regal the Pacific Ocean feels, compared to the intrepid nervousness of a Cape Cod or a Peggy’s Cove.
The oversized trees and laidback little towns, awash in farmer’s markets, goat-milk and hemp; the dry heat that makes the grass brittle and the crickets go crazy; and that patient, lolling sea just lying there, behind majestic sand dunes or cliffs… it’s a totally different universe.
Always being one to enjoy a good contrast, I’ve been poring through more photos of the summer as I sit (and pretend to work) in the middle of this beautiful forest in Northern California. Surrounded by giant firs, swaying plantations and garlanded Hindu statues, it’s almost surreal to think of that chilly, grey morning we went oyster and mussel harvesting with John Bil in Prince Edward Island. Far far away in the cold Atlantic.
John Bil, who knows a thing or two about oysters, being the three-time North American oyster-shucking champion, met us at 7 AM in Charlottetown. His van, covered in red dust, sported a human-sized lobster on the roof and his license plate read O Y S T E R S. Tall and lanky, with the specific skinniness of a marathon runner, John loves food in general (he helped chef Fred Morin with the opening of Joe Beef, back in Montreal), but oysters are what really make him go gaga.
The day started so early that even after a jaunt aboard the the Flex Muscle 4, the mussel-fishing boat his business partner Stephen Stewart owns, and a brisk outing on an barge with his friend James Power at Raspberry Point, near Malpeque Bay, where we raked the shallow sea bottom for oysters, it was still only 9:30. Fishermen know it’s never too early for a good time, John told us.
Hopping right back into his lobstered van, he took us to his new restaurant, the recently opened Ship to Shore Lounge. An amazing little place by the side of the road, Ship to Shore doesn’t try to be all cool and Asian Fusion-y or anything. Which is awesome if you ask me. On the type-written menu there is all kinds of fried goodness (ah, deep-fried scallops with lemon!) but also wonderful old-school recipes like proper smoked mussel bisque and several kinds of steamed mussels, all bathing in luscious broths.
So we sat at the bar, perched on high wooden stools, and let John show us how it’s done. White wine, raw oysters, freshly baked country bread, chowder, mussels with cream, wild mushroom and bacon… a true breakfast of champions. It appears seafood so fresh and expertly prepared makes everyone a bit of a rogue. Or at least disposes people to disregard proper meal times. As we were leaving, entire families were filling the rectangular dining area, just as others were already digging with delight in mountains of fish and chips or cute white-and-pink lobster rolls. It wasn’t even 11 yet.
Stephen Stewart, scaring up some mussel lines © Carolyne Weldon
Baby mussels, still clinging to their sock © Carolyne Weldon
Nautical mess, with human legs © Carolyne Weldon
John (left) and Bill, pulling up some oysters to shuck at breakfast © Carolyne Weldon